Well, I've just about emerged on the other side of my
first holiday cookbook roundup, and this time, I was unusually
aware of my decision-making process. You know how you're
standing in front of the cookbook shelves at the store, leafing
through cookbooks and trying to figure out which one to take home,
and you feel paralyzed and uncertain, and you question yourself,
and then when you finally make up your mind you're sure you made
the wrong choice? That's my life as a cookbook reviewer.
The subjective nature of choosing the best cookbooks
sometimes overwhelms me, and I question myself into oblivion.
(It doesn't help knowing that the market will move, according
to my picks. It always does. No pressure or anything!)
But this time, I paid very close attention to my questions, and
I realized that they basically boiled down to a manageable number.
In fact, just seven. I was so happy to realize that
these could be named that I printed up little cards to score the
books by my 7 questions and stuck them to all the candidates.
See if you agree with my criteria--maybe your process is a
little like mine.
Question 1: Is it useful? This means, would an
enthusiastic home cook (anyone ranging from a fast weeknight cook
to a thoughtful gourmand) be able to find recipes in this book that
would satisfy them for a week straight of cooking?
Question 2: Is it thoughtful? This means, has the author
thought of the reader's needs? Are there hard-to-find ingredients
and if so, is there guidance as to where to find them? Are there
multiple sub-recipes you have to hunt around for? Are
thereclarifying tips in the instructions? Are there side
essays, helpful sidebars and charts? Do the headnotes help
you cook the recipe?
Question 3: Is it new? Are at least a majority of
the recipes really new?--i.e. not just another recipe for roast
chicken or meatballs or insalata caprese with the exact ingredients
you've always made them with in more or less the same
If I can't say at least a partial yes to all three of those
first questions, I don't get to choose it for the shortlist.
After that we get into the refinements.
Question 4: Does it tell a story? Not everyone likes a
story in their cookbooks, but I do. I like colorful
headnotes, reminiscences, and anecdotes--they show me that the
author has really put their heart and soul into the book.
Question 5: Is it well-designed? Design is so important
that a lack of it can ruin a cookbook that is otherwise useful,
thoughtful and new. Cookbooks are working books, and they
should look like they're meant to help you, not like a postmodern
Question 6: Is it focused? A lot of cookbooks are simply
collections of everything the author has ever cooked, or cooked in
the last year. That isn't necessarily a bad thing, and this
concern can be overridden by awesome design or thoughtfulness or
usefulness. But in such an overcrowded market, focus is
Question 7: Is it the best of its kind? Or at least, the
best that I've seen. What a hard question this is to answer!
The answer is almost never Yes. But asking it helps me
sort out my thinking. If the answer is, "It just might be..."
that's a vast endorsement in itself.
I also have known biases, which I have to be on rigorous watch
for: 1) I'm a sucker for great design. 2) I get annoyed when
there are 2 systems of measurement in a book. 3) I am
happiest when I see a wide variety of publishers, including
underdogs. These I consider unreasonable biases, and much of
my time goes into re-weighting my judgements to counter those
What questions do you ask yourself when you choose a cookbook?
Are they something like mine? Or do you have a whole
different set of criteria?