I guess there's no two ways around it: chefs live more
interesting lives than the rest of us. On the whole, that's
because their lives are also harder: late hours, low pay, high
stress, a demanding public. With success comes the
expectation of simultaneously expanding, and reinventing
yourself. Not surprisingly, those chefs who survive have
enormous character, and those who find the time to write a memoir
often find their public devours it as ravenously as it does their
food. No one says life has to be hard to be interesting, but
so often it just works out that way...
My life is a cakewalk compared to a chef's, yet even I find I
rarely have time to read their books. Still, I'm going to
clear the decks so I can read
Gabrielle Hamilton's Blood, Bones, and
Butter. Hamilton's Prune was just a fledgling eatery when
I lived in NY, and I have always regretted not making a
visit. But her book has a captivating prose surface--Hamilton
had gotten a fiction MFA before she shifted to food, and it
shows.
Perhaps the bio with the biggest buzz right now is Grant
Achatz's, Life, On
the Line. The Alinea chef, as the well-known story
goes, pushed the frontiers of American molecular gastronomy before
being catastrophically diagnosed with tongue cancer. I am
sure his ordeal, and his subsequent recovery, will be roundly
hailed as a "triumph of the human spirit". But I will gladly
settle for "a good read".
Anthony Bourdain's bistro, Les Halles, was one of my favorite
places to eat once,
but I would
have enjoyed Anthony Bourdain's first, shocking foray into the
form, Kitchen Confidential, even if
it hadn't been. In the years since, the chef has turned into
a global food personality, but he still finds ways to mine his
experience for print. Medium Raw was the last one, published
last summer--have you read it? What else have you liked?
I think we can all do each other a favor by recommending our
favorite food memoirs. In a field as well supplied as food
publishing is, we rely on each other to sniff out the
truffles--even if, in this as so much else, it all comes down
eventually to a matter of taste.
I try to keep an open mind, filled with the hopeful thought that
the greatest enjoyment to be had in my life, next to eating food,
is reading books. And with any luck, in a few months, someone
will enjoy reading mine.