Strangely enough, in just this past week I've seen two very
different books on the scientific basis of taste.
One looks at taste from a
human-centered point of view. Barb Stuckey's a professional food
developer. Taste What
You're Missing is a popular-science romp through the five
senses, with lots of fun experiments to try at home (dye your
tongue blue and count how many taste buds you have! do an
"official" sensory evaluation of milk chocolate bars!) and
memorable bits of phraseology "Umami is the beer goggles of
taste."
The other book, Taste Buds &
Molecules, looks at taste from what can only be described as
the food's point of view. Written by French wine and food
critic François Chartier, the book breaks down the chemical
elements present in various ingredients. It catalogues their
volatile compounds, maps our complementary foods and wines and
offers some rather formidable recipes ("Large scallop warmed in an
oil of bitter almonds, accompanied by a warm fennel salad with
imperial mandarins and mirin, salted, dried corn power, and
osmanthus flower mousse.")
Needless to say, the second book has some strongly modernist (as
in "modernist cuisine") or, if you like, molecular (as in
"molecular gastronomy") leanings.
Although neither volume is likely to earn a place on the
"favorites" cookbook shelf in the kitchen, both offer interesting
glimpses into the world we take for granted, right inside our
mouths. And they may be just slightly more engaging bedside
reading than the stack of cookbooks you've had piled on your night
table for months.