
Andrew Friedman is a highly regarded cookbook collaborator
and on his website, Toqueland, he's just finished a
fascinating two-part series on how to
create a unique cookbook. Admittedly spurred on by the recent
controversy about cookbook collaborations, he presents the opposite
story - how a good working relationship can produce a valuable and
unique cookbook.
Harold Dieterle, the winner of Top Chef's first
season and current owner of two successful restaurants, approached
Friedman looking for some help in writing his first cookbook.
Dieterle needed to do it the old-fashioned way - starting with the
need for a concept and proposal to sell to publishers, and then
learning how to write the book for a general audience.
The two-part blog details the process, starting at
the beginning when the main goal was to come up with an attractive
concept that bridged what Dieterle did in his kitchen with what
home cooks did in theirs. Two obvious approaches were immediately
discarded - apparently restaurant cookbooks are no longer
popular, and "Chef X cooks at home" is too generic. After several
frustrating months, the idea hit:
"And then, one night, while poring over
Harold's recipe lists at home, something hit me, a series of
related ideas that followed one after the other in quick
succession, like a line of mental dominoes tipping each other over:
Each of Harold's dishes has one or two elements that really put it
over the top, and (this was the key observation) might have
multiple applications in other dishes. What if, I thought, we
wrote a book in which we presented recipes for fully formed dishes
on one page, and on the facing (opposite) page isolated the most
potent and/or versatile element of the dish, wrote an essay about
its charms, and offered a number of ways to deploy
it?"
With the approach and title, Harold Dieterle's Kitchen
Notebook, determined, the blog continues to detail how this
concept was fleshed out. There are some great tips along the way;
especially in Part II, where Friedman details the collaboration
procedure on one recipe, Ricotta Cheese, Acorn Squash
Tempura, Truffle Honey, Sunflower Seeds, and Grilled Bread.
There's a 7-minute video where the two discuss the raw form of the
recipe, and then an explanation and presentation of the necessary
revisions to the recipe to make it home friendly and have Harold's
voice. Then there's the accompanying detail of one ingredient,
Homemade Ricotta.
This is a fascinating read and one that highlights why
collaboration can be especially valuable when writing
cookbooks.