
It's Cinco de Mayo, which is actually almost more of an American
holiday than a Mexican one. It technically celebrates a battle than
occurred in the Mexican province of Puebla, but became a holiday
that Mexican-Americans encouraged to signify pride in their
heritage. And just as with Cinco de Mayo, the concept of what is
"authentic" Mexican food, vs. Mexican-American food, is also a bit
hazy. Ironically, that haziness is proving to be the cause for
another battle between Rick Bayless - an American chefs who is most
famous for creating "authentic" Mexican food - and the state of
California.
In the first of two incidents, Bayless purportedly
"introduced Southern Californians to Mexican food. As ABC
news sums it up, there was " a comment Bayless made
(or didn't make, as Bayless himself maintains) about introducing
Southern California diners to "authentic" Mexican cuisine. Long
story short: In 2010, Pulitzer Prize-winning food writer Jonathan
Gold, addressing attendees as a fund-raiser for an association of
Latino journalists,criticized Bayless for his role in Red
O, a restaurant that, as he characterized it, positioned
itself as introducing authentic Mexican food to Los Angeles -- a
city long-influenced by Mexicans, Mexican-Americans, and their
respective, often overlapping food traditions. Bayless responded to
Gold's comments online, tweeting directly to Gold that he
"[t]hought a Pulitzer meant you checked facts. Sneering at me for
something I never said is either mean or sloppy. I'm
offended."
More recently, however, in San Francisco, in an interview with
Zagat, Bayless is quoted as saying, "San Francisco doesn't
really have much of a Mexican food tradition aside from the
taquerias in the Mission, which is a fairly limited thing." This
did not go over well in San Franicsco. In a blog written by Gustavo
Arellano (author of Taco USA), titled Rick Bayless Insults
Yet Another California City's Mexican Food
Traditions, Arellano writes, "Um, excuse me? No
tradition? Idiot obviously didn't read my Taco
USA, let alone ask the Mexicans who've lived in the Mission
even before Bayless was some Okie manning a barbecue pit whether
their traditions are nonexistent. Idiot didn't even visit San
Francisco's vibrant Yucatecan food scene, beneficiaries of the
largest Yucateco community in the United States. And to call the
Mission burrito a "fairly limited thing" is akin to calling the
1974 Cadillac Eldorado a fairly short car."
We love Mexican food in all forms - and think it's probably a
good thing that there really can't be a fine line between
"athentic" and "non-authentic" Mexican food. After all, culture
changes (especially those involving food) that are inclusive rather
than exclusionary should be welcomed. While this controversy
doesn't change our over-all opinion of Bayless and the wonderful cookbooks
he's written, it does make us wish that he would be a little
more thoughtful in his interviews.
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