Given the number of members who own a copy of Joy of
Cooking (well over 3000), we're assuming that this iconic
cookbook needs no introduction. Since it was first published in
1931 by Irma Rombauer, assisted by her daugher Marion Becker, there
have been eight editions of Joy, and some have been
accepted eagerly and some with controversy. Given how many of us
probably still have older copies, or are tempted to purchase older
copies, it's interesting to note the the story of the most
significant versions:
The 1964 5th edition was the first published after Irma
Rombauer's death and without Marion's consent. It was rampant with
errors, and subsequent editions (which Marion edited) dealt mostly
with cleaning up all the errors in this edition.
The 1975 6th edition is the biggest seller of all the editions
and is considered by those who have it (including us) the book that
is truest to Rombauer's vision. It was the last edition edited by
Marion Becker.
The most controversial edition, the 7th edition published in
1997, was ghost-written by a team of chefs, dropped the
first-person folksy style, and introduced a lot of international
cuisine and more sophisticated cooking. It also eliminated many
simple or down-home recipes, especially in the dessert and
preserving sections, as well as ingredients (e.g. substituting
bechamel for cream of mushroom soup). The New York Times
once referred to it as "The New Coke of cookbooks."
The 8th edition, pubished in 2006, is also known as the 75th
Anniversary edition. It reverted back to the Rombauer style both in
voice and with a return of much of the excised information of the
1997 edition, along with the simpler recipes. It was sponsored by
Rombauer's grandson.
We were inspired to write this when we noted that the
Kitchn is asking its readers, Do You
Have a Favorite Edition of Joy of Cooking? It can be a
little hard to compare since only the 7th and 8th editions are in
print, but as the 1975 edition was the biggest seller, it can still
be found fairly easily.
As might be apparent, we love our 1975 edition - which was
effectively our first cooking instructor - and we'd vote strongly
for it. But we'd love to hear your opinions. And just for nostalgia
sake, here is the recipe that I think many people first cooked from
the book - Chicken Divan - and
still one that many people probably remember very fondly.
Photo by Corazonde Dios