OK so as promised some feedback (if a little belated!). Lisbon is just so pretty it is amazing. Especially when the sun makes all its colors shine! The history, art, and architecture marvels around the place are also breathtaking. Stephanie was right, it is canned fish paradise here, an institution!
So day 1 : Arrival and relaxing
- Restaurant : Erva at Corinthia (which was my hotel), good and fresh. Great wine selection. Very sweet service. I didn't intend to go there to eat initially, wanted to explore more, but my plane was leaving at 6.00 - 4.30am at the airport. The hotel was kind enough to give me a spare room that was free so I just collapsed into bed and woke up starving just as Erva was opening. I had Pumpkin soup and Arroz y Pesce - very tasty if a bit strong tasting, but the waitress had warned me. In general Erva serves local dishes sourced locally. It can be a bit expensive, but for lunch, you have specials which are more affordable - I paid my main 13 euros for instance.
- Then had a walk around Alfama quarter, and then a glass of port (well, two or three :) watching the amazing view, the trams and people go by and the sunset on the harbour, in the Miradouro da Porta do Sol. I found a quiet cafe behind the (too busy) drink kiosk with a view almost just as nice and a fraction of the price. I took this opportunity that there are actually several colors of port, white port, red port ("tawny" or "ruby"), and pink port. Just so you know :) If you don't specify which one, they wouldn't usually ask, but just serve whatever they think is best (which might be the one they prefer, would like you to discover, or the cheapest!)
Day 2 : Alfama and the center
- Castelo de Sao Jorge and Cathedral (Se). Beautiful, full of history in the forever charming Alfama quarter. Taking pictures of the architecture, soaking it all in. It is really impressive to learn about all the hidden symbols in architecture. I mean you would think you are in the Da Vinci code!
- Restaurant : The breakfast at Corinthia was a pure marvel, so I stocked in that, and then just had a light lunch at the Time Out market as everybody advised me (impressive building and choices!!!). I chose a portuguese japanese fusion sushi thing, called https://www.timeoutmarket.com/lisboa/en/eat-and-drink/sea-me/ which was also advised by Stephanie.
Day 3 : Belen
- Here I went to see the Mosteiro de las Jeronimos, followed by the Padrao dos Descubrimientos. The Mosteiro is breathtaking, the architecture is just so beautiful, an amazement. I advise you do not take the cheap way in, which is to just visit the cathedral which is free, but then buy a ticket to Mosteiro, and take the time to do the whole visit or at least a large part of it. I then wandered around the gardens in front off to the Padrao dos Descubrimientos, an impressive sculpture to the glory of Salazar and Portugal (I know, but the monument is actually quite striking even if it is propaganda art)... and when you think of it, aren't most architecture marvels of the world?). Then had a beautiful lunch by the seafront (see below). Then had a bit of hit and miss, tried to find a belen pastry shop, failed (well I did find the original one but the queues were just ridiculous). Then I ended up just looking for the tram and couldn't find where the stop was, even if they were tracks. Took the bus back finally, all along the seafront until my metro stop.
- Restaurant and art gallery : Espaco Espelho d'Agua, http://espacoespelhodeagua.com/galeria/ - it was having a gastronomic experience, surrounded by modern art, soaking in the sun and the amazing seaside view. How did I resist taking wine, I don't know, but I took a splurging but light lobster and mango salad, with a fresh orange juice. Amazing. Service was a bit slow but they had an event that day so this might explain that. I will still go again (every day if I could!)
- Restaurant and fado show : Fado ao Carmo - reservation absolutely compulsory. Wonderful. Choice between diner + Fado or Fado only reservations. The food is local and excellent. For starters I advise the duck croquettes, the garlic gambas looked great, and the cod as a main. For desert, do not miss the chocolate cake, and then sip portuguese wine, letting yourself mellowing at the beautiful complaint of Fado.
Day 4 : A little tour in the suburbs by the telecabins, where the view was amazing! You can also see the longest bridge in Europe. Vasco da Gama bridge, which is 17km long! I meandered around the gardens at the other side of the telecabins by the aquarium then visited the aquarium (I do recommend booking advanced tickets btw, which I didn't do). It's all a part of the Ocean Park built for the Universal Exhibition of 1998. It's super impressive and works with a theme of "Ocean, future of humanity".
- Restaurant : That was such a lucky find. It was Sunday, I was tired, walked too much trailing my luggage around with me, it was in a quite deserted neighborhood (aside for the Ocean Park), and I was STARVING. I couldn't find a place I liked anywhere, and then it started raining. Misery! I found this small establishment right before kitchen closed. AND that was GREAT. It is called "A Avó Tinha - Parque das Nações". I took Fried Cheese, Ham croquettes, and marinated mushrooms (i.e. three tapas starters i/o a main). The food was tasty and the service was exceptional. I then was offered a shot of two of Portuguese less known liqueurs, which are worth knowing (and bringing back!), which are Moscatel and Ginja. Moscatel is more sweet, while Ginja is more sour, and made from cherries.
Voila! I will post a link to pictures when I get around to it.