Chef Ievgen Klopotenko trained in France but is passionate about Ukrainian food culture. In this handsome book he offers an array of foods which make a strong case for the distinctiveness of Ukrainian food, something he feels the Soviet Union did its best to obliterate.

Klopotenko's vigorous enthusiasm is evident throughout the book, especially in his chapter opening notes. (We were not surprised to learn that he produced a movie called Borscht: The Secret Ingredient documenting borscht in all its Ukrainian forms.) It's clear he has immersed himself in the culinary culture and we would have happily seen more in the way of that kind of material.

In addition to several borscht recipes, among the remarkable dishes here that caught our eye: dumplings with sour cherries and ground meat; kvass-cooked pork ribs; savory millet porridge with sour pickled tomato; a cold apricot soup.

Attractive presentation photographs add an extra dose of inspiration to a bold book.

Other cookbooks by this author

• The Authentic Ukrainian Kitchen: Recipes from a Native Chef
• The Authentic Ukrainian Kitchen: Recipes from a Native Chef
• The Authentic Ukrainian Kitchen: Recipes from a Native Chef