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Everything I Want to Eat: Sqirl and the New California Cooking by Jessica Koslow

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Notes about this book

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Notes about Recipes in this book

  • Sorrel pesto rice bowl (Kokuho Rose brown rice, nut-free sorrel pesto, preserved Meyer lemon, feta, and a poached egg)

    • DKennedy on January 19, 2018

      This is the first recipe I have made from this book and I am very happy with my results. I used TJs frozen rice (way more than called for in the recipe but it worked perfectly). I subbed spinach for the sorrel as I couldn't find any, and added a little lemon zest to more accurately mimic the sorrel flavor. Both the pesto and the rice can be made ahead and assembled at the last minutes. I added both watermelon radishes and regular, and I dressed the black kale with the mustard dressing as noted in the variations. I used TJs herbed feta to top the bowl. I left out the egg mostly because I couldn't be bothered to poach it, but I am sure it would have been even better with an egg on top. This made for a satisfying meal and the leftovers were also delicious.

  • Crispy rice salad (Kokuho Rose fried brown rice, lemongrass, mint, cucumber, and ginger)

    • DKennedy on January 30, 2018

      I agree this is a delicious salad. We first tried it at the restaurant and then made it as our salad course for our Cook the Book menu. Amy pre cooked the rice and dried it overnight. The next day, she fried it as instructed and the oil overflowed. Other recipes suggest adding the rice a little at a time. Lesson learned. As for the other accompaniments, this is a perfectly balanced salad and we agree, the lemongrass should be crushed and added to the infused lemon juice. We made it the following night as our main course. If I could eat fried food everyday, this would be my go to salad.

    • rosten on November 05, 2016

      This was ok. Not really as good as I would have liked given the effort involved. Also, strangely, lemongrass is in the title but not the recipe.

    • coryelizabeth on August 20, 2017

      Delicious. I was a little skeptical of the frying-rice step (is this really going to work?), but it worked fine. Just hold steady and do what the recipe tells you -- including standing back from the pan after adding the rice. As the other reviewer noted, the recipe fails to mention how the lemongrass should be incorporated, but I think you're supposed to crush it and add it to the lemon juice with the ginger.

  • Chickpea flour pancakes (Socca)

    • DKennedy on January 30, 2018

      Quite delicious - definitely make again. Amy made the batter for this recipe during our Cook the Book dinner. I made the first test pancake and it needed salt. Note that salt is not included as an ingredient and it should be added to taste. We salted the batter as it hit the pan, and that, along with the seasoned labneh, and dressed greens, was sufficient. But going forward, I would add salt to the batter. This socca presents like a potato pancake, though the batter is dryer, and browns quite nicely. We used winter squash and dressed it with arugula.

  • Rabbit ballotine with collard bundles of rabbit confit in green garlic broth

    • DKennedy on January 30, 2018

      This is a very involved recipe. We made it as our main course for Supper Club and I don't think I would try it again, even though it would be world's easier the second time around. The butchering instructions are not for the novice and we had our butcher do it for us. We made the bone broth as instructed, and confit'd the legs with little effort. The collard bundles were beautiful served in the broth but we had to play around with the green garlic puree because green garlic is not in season. The ballotines were so much work!!!! Tasty, but no way would I make them again. And the instructions were very confusing. We read and reread and reread.

  • Hazelnut torte with raspberry jam, ganache, and toasted meringue

    • DKennedy on January 30, 2018

      We made this as our dessert for our Supper Club's Cook the Book Menu. This is really four recipes, two cakes, a homemade jam, a ganache and a toasted meringue. Because there were three of us making this, it took very little effort to put together, but I don't think I'd make it again on my own. Susan made the cakes and they popped right out of the pan. I can't remember who put the ganache together but I do know it is not a fluffy ganache, it becomes a hard chocolate layer between the two cakes. I think I would have preferred a softer ganache. We substituted Sqirl packaged jam, and I made the meringue. This was my first cooked meringue. Susan brought her torch and I used one for the first time. The cake makes for an impressive presentation and I think everyone enjoyed it, but IMO it was not worth the effort. I think the cake to filling ratio was off, and a little dry. If making it again, I would probably opt for more filling and less cake.

  • Ginger molasses cinnamon shrub

    • DKennedy on January 30, 2018

      We made this cocktail to start off our Supper Club Cook the Book dinner. I am not a big cocktail person, so I added mine to club soda. Others added it to club soda and vodka, but we all agreed after tasting it it would be better paired with rum. Quite delicious on its own.

  • Kohlrabi tzatziki

    • TrishaCP on June 05, 2017

      An interesting take on tzatziki. The flavors (coriander, cumin, and preserved lemon) pair brilliantly with the kohlrabi and yogurt. However, there is a process you are supposed to complete ahead of time where you salt and drain the kohlrabi and drain the yogurt. This is supposed to start 24 hours in advance. I did this about 4 hours in advance. I would do it again for the kohlrabi, but I wouldn't bother with the yogurt. It made a very "dry" tzatziki, but I wanted something looser, so ended up adding some of the whey from the yogurt back in. Next time I would just use Greek yogurt and call it a day. I did find 4 hours was plenty of time to remove the liquid from my kohlrabi as long as I squeezed it out.

  • Chickpea stew with chard, poached eggs, and smoked chile

    • meggan on May 04, 2017

      This was pretty nothing. Granted my chickpeas were too hard and would not soften but even so, this was nothing to write home about.

  • Famed ricotta toast (burnt brioche with house-made ricotta and seasonal jam)

    • MmeFleiss on June 10, 2017

      Even with supermarket ricotta and IKEA jam, this was divine. Definitely don't skip the fleur de sel, as it made a huge difference (I forgot it initially).

  • Jam-stuffed French toast

    • MmeFleiss on June 11, 2017

      An easy but decadent breakfast. Definitely will be repeated around here.

  • Malva pudding cakes

    • annmartina on February 09, 2018

      These are heartbreakingly delicious. Be patient pouring in the custard.

    • rosten on February 16, 2017

      Probably really bad for you but pretty simple to throw together and very good.

  • Daily quiche

    • rosten on February 16, 2017

      Time consuming but really really good.

  • Vegetally versatile fritatta

    • rosten on February 16, 2017

      quick and flexible and great. A new go-to.

  • Beets on fish on beets on fish (tartine of smashed beets, smoked whitefish schmear, and beet-cured salmon)

    • rosten on February 16, 2017

      This was incredible. Comically time consuming if you do all the steps. But if you're looking for a project and have a dehydrator. . .

  • The sprouty pod (mung bean sprouts, crunchy buckwheat, and roasted delicata squash with pomegranate, labneh, and cilantro pistou)

    • rosten on November 18, 2016

      This was great. Surprising, fresh, healthy feeling but also straight-up delicious. Not too much work since almost all the cooking is passive.

  • Super green spring (pea - English, snap, and tendrils - salad with date jam, Meyer lemon ricotta, and mint salsa verde)

    • rosten on January 16, 2018

      insanely good, not too hard.

  • Braised duck legs with dill spätzle and sauerkraut

    • rosten on February 16, 2017

      Crazy rich but still somehow, almost light feeling? Fun to make for a winter party.

  • Lemon verbena peach pie

    • rosten on July 05, 2017

      I've made this twice and both times it was great. the Lemon Verbena just subtly kicks everything up a notch. The pie crust technique makes a great flakiness.

  • Schmearable "ricotta"

    • rosten on February 16, 2017

      THis is a particularly good ricotta recipe. Citric acid really increased my "returns"

  • Brown rice horchata

    • coryelizabeth on August 07, 2017

      This didn't work for me. I have a really good blender, and even after two separate sessions where I added a lot of extra water, the majority of the puree was too thick to strain through cheesecloth or even a fine-mesh strainer. I did wind up with some liquid that tasted like what I had in Koslow's restaurant, but it was gritty, and the yield was far less than the promised quart.

  • Chicken kofte on rosemary sprigs with garlic schmear and cabbage kumquat salad

    • Rutikazooty on July 29, 2017

      I would reduce salt in kofteh and in Garlic shmear by 1/2. Don't sub an orange for the kumquats (which I did)--bad move. Kofteh and garlic shmear were delicious. Definitely make rice on the side as she suggests. My kofteh meat mixture was too liquid. I may have overdone the wine. I would add wine last to make sure the mixture can be easily formed onto the rosemary kabob. Family agreed that rosemary kabob didn't seem to add flavor (even though the herb fried in the oil) but made for special presentation. Also when you are making it, if you clip it from your own overgrown rosemary plants, you feel like you are cooking outdoors and making use of the bounty in your garden. It's special.

  • Avocado toast (pickled carrots, garlic cream, house spice mix)

    • kawillia on June 09, 2017

      Delicious. Lots of subrecipes, but easy to but together for lunch after the initial hurdle.

    • Skamper on February 17, 2018

      I bought the book for this recipe after eating avocado toast at the restaurant. Delicious and worth the effort to plan ahead and make the pickled carrots. Made during a summer house rental with friends and it was a big hit. Never thought I'd say this but I don't think the melted butter is necessary. The garlic cream is a must.

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Reviews about this book

  • Eat the Love

    It took me years to get to Sqirl, the hipster brunch place in Los Angeles ...It lived up to the hype and their cookbook ...does too.

    Full review
  • ISBN 10 141972231X
  • ISBN 13 9781419722318
  • Published Oct 04 2016
  • Format Hardcover
  • Page Count 280
  • Language English
  • Countries United States
  • Publisher Abrams

Publishers Text

The debut cookbook from Jessica Koslow, award-winning chef of LA’s popular restaurant Sqirl, featuring more than 100 fresh, market-driven, healthy, and flavorful recipes.
 
Jessica Koslow and her restaurant, Sqirl, are at the forefront of the California cooking renaissance, which is all about food that surprises us and engages all of our senses—it looks good, tastes vibrant, and feels fortifying yet refreshing. In Everything I Want to Eat, Koslow shares 100 of her favorite recipes for health-conscious but delicious dishes, all of which always use real foods—no fake meat or fake sugar here—that also happen to be suitable for vegetarians, vegans, or whomever you’re sharing your meal with.
 
The book is organized into seven chapters, each featuring a collection of recipes centered on a key ingredient or theme. Expect to find recipes for dishes Sqirl has become known for, as well as brand-new seasonal flavor combinations, including:
 
  • Raspberry and vanilla bean jam
  • Sorrel-pesto rice bowl
  • Burnt brioche toast with house ricotta and seasonal jam
  • Butternut squash latkes with crème fraîche and applesauce
  • Lamb merguez, cranberry beans, roasted tomato, and yogurt cheese
  • Valrhona chocolate fleur de sel cookies
  • Almond hazelnut milk

Koslow lives in LA, where everyone is known to be obsessively health-conscious and where dietary restrictions are the norm. People come into Sqirl and order dishes with all sorts of substitutions and modifications—hold the feta, please, add extra kale. They are looking to make their own healthy adventures. Others may tack breakfast sausage, cured bacon, or Olli’s prosciutto on to their order. So Koslow has had to constantly think about ways to modify dishes for certain diets, which in a way has made her a better, more adaptable cook.
 
Throughout this book, Koslow provides notes and thought bubbles that show how just about any dish can be modified for specific tastes and dietary needs, whether it needs to be gluten-free or vegan.
 
Everything I Want to Eat captures the excitement of the food at Sqirl—think of a classic BLT sandwich turned playful with the substitution of chicken skin “bacon”—while also offering accessible recipes, like tangerine and rosewater semolina cake, that can be easily made in the home kitchen. Moreover, it’s an entirely new kind of cookbook and approach to how we are all starting to think about food, allowing readers to play with the recipes, combining and shaping them to be nothing short of everything you want to eat.
 
Praise for Jessica Koslow and Sqirl:
 
“Koslow’s dishes managed to galvanize the very narrow crossover of food writers and L.A. salad obsessives. Turns out that in her hands, breakfast and lunch are what people want to eat all day long.” —Bon Appétit
 
“I would say that Koslow and I are culinary soul mates, but given the popularity of the place, it’s clear that I’m not the only one. This is food whose time has come.” —Mark Bittman