An ode to orange blossom water

Rose water and lavender are polarizing ingredients, called out by people who think they make a food or drink taste too much like soap. Far less polarizing is another floral flavor often used in Middle Eastern cuisine: orange blossom water. Serious Eats’ Laila Ibrahim recently posted a love letter to this heady ingredient, extolling its virtues in a variety of dishes.

Made from the blossoms of bitter (Seville) oranges, orange blossom water is often used in sweets like baklava and semolina cake or in cocktails, most famously the Ramos Gin Fizz. Its use is not limited to those applications, however, being equally at home in savory chicken or lamb dishes, sides like jeweled rice and salads, and in refreshing non-alcoholic beverages. There seems to be no limit to the types of foods that can benefit from its delicate floral notes.

The most popular brand these days is probably Cortas, but if you have been using orange blossom water for a long time, you probably remember the A. Monteux brand that came in tiny blue plastic bottles with a charming old-fashioned label that conjured images of an old apothecary. This French product was less oily and contained a more subtle and delicate flavor than most other brands. I was crushed when circa 2010 I was no longer able to find the little blue bottles as Mr. Monteux had retired (at the age of 90!) and closed up shop. Bartender and mixologist Jeffrey Morganthaler also laments the passing of this product, although he finds Theodule Noirot Orange Flower Water to be a suitable substitute.