When I dip, you dip, we dip

French dip sandwiches, which like most things labeled “French” in the US, are not French, are currently having a moment, says Eater’s Andrea Strong. She chronicles the current crop of offerings in New York City, which is not the birthplace of the revered ‘wich that was allegedly cooked up first in Los Angeles. Strong says that New York’s “roast beef wars…are on par with the Mets versus Yankees” rivalry – which means serious business.

Two Los Angeles eateries each claimed to have invented the French dip, which has changed little since its inception except to get zhushed up by chefs looking to ‘one-up’ the competition. The basic elements – a sturdy roll that won’t dissolve in jus, beef, melty cheese, and onions – have been a constant. Modern takes include vegan options and perhaps a switch up with a different meat, but all iterations require a salty hot liquid in which to dunk the sandwich, infusing flavor into every pore of the bun.

The EYB Library has 58 online French dip sandwich recipes, with most hewing closely to the original, with a lot of slow cooker options for easy preparation of the meat. I prefer shaved or thinly sliced beef over the shredded beef versions but am agnostic as to sauteed vs. caramelized onions or the variety of cheese. What’s your favorite French dip recipe?